Mice are usually classified as a pest species due to their habits of living in houses, getting into food and gnawing on wood and wires. The most common complaints include the following:

  • Mice living in the attic
  • Mice scratching in the walls
  • Mice raiding the pantry
  • Gnawing on electrical wires
  • Concerns over health risks

For these reasons, many people wish to have these nuisance rodents trapped and removed.

Since it’s a common problem, I have an advice article with photos on how to get mice out of the attic. I also may as well say here while you’re on this page that the methods of mouse removal are the exact same as the methods for rat removal. The only difference is that mice are smaller, and actually a little easier to catch on snap traps. Other than that, all the principles are the same. And I’ve written WAY more about rat control than mouse control. So if you want to read any of the articles I’ve written about rats, all of which apply to mice, just go to my rat removal page. Thanks!I will now discuss the proper methods for mouse removal in homes, buildings, crawl spaces, attics, etc.

STEP ONE – Inspect your home for the presence of mice. The first thing you may have noticed was some scratching or scurrying or pitter-patter running sounds in the attic or walls of your house. Acoustics can be tricky, so a visual inspection helps you to know what rodent you are dealing with, be it squirrels, rats, or mice. All three will leave chew marks and nesting material, but mouse trails are very small and skinny. The best bet is if you can identify mouse poop, so click the link to look at photos.

STEP TWO – Once you know what the animal is, in this case a mouse or mice, comes the most important step. Inspect your entire outside house or building, and find all the open holes and gaps that mice are using to get into the structure. This can include vents, eave gaps, roof lines, loose siding, areas where pipes enter home, AC chase, etc. ANYWHERE. Any small hole or gap. Check from the ground up, and definitely the entire roof. You need to look for VERY SMALL areas, like a quarter of an inch, or a hole the size of a dime. It takes great attention to detail. Whenever you find one of these areas, seal it up by tacking in steel mesh. I also use a sealant to hold it in and block air flow. You will never remove all the mice unless you can first stop them from getting inside the building in the first place.

STEP THREE – Once the place is all sealed up, it’s time to trap and remove the mice. There are many tpes of mousetrap out there, but after testing dozens of kinds over the years, I have learned that the original Victor brand wooden snap traps are the best. But if there is some other kind of trap you like, go ahead and use it. The most important thing is the placement of the traps. You need to set them on the mouse runways and trails where you can see the mice are running. Look for the mouse feces. I set many traps, usually at least 12 in an attic, and more if it looks like a heavy mouse infestation.

You can read the other half of this article on Wildlife Removal’s site here: http://bit.ly/2o2x240